Normally I would start collecting seeds in September for the next year's garden, but travel plans, and post-travel catch-up, have put me behind schedule. Fortunately, seed collection is a forgiving process, and can be done throughout the fall, preferably when it has been at least 24 hours since the last rain shower.
Only open-pollinated (non-hybrid) seeds return true-to-type, but those varieties are typically plentiful and fairly easy to grow. Many of the "old favorites", like Brandywine tomatoes and California Giants Zinnias, are open-pollinated varieties.
There are basically three types of seeds I collect: those from composites (daisy-type flowers), those which form pods and "wet" seeds. Composite seeds sometimes remain on the flower-head after the petals fall, as in the case with Cosmos varieties, Sunflowers and Calendula, and can just be gathered. Other composite-type flowers, like Zinnias, Daisies, lettuces and Marigolds form seeds attached to the dried petals. By removing the entire dried flower head and removing the dead petals, the seeds can be collected.
Pod-forming seeds just need to ripen and dry as thoroughly on the plant as possible before being collected. Vegetable seeds such as bean and pea varieties and arugula form pods for seeds, as well as Balsam, Morning Glory and Cleome. The trick with some of these seeds is collecting them before they naturally scatter in the garden. Some gardeners will attach a small paper bag with string to the plant to catch seeds as the pods pop open.
"Wet" seeds aren't difficult to collect if they are properly dried. Seeds from tomatoes, pumpkins, peppers and any plant in which the seeds are contained within a fruit or vegetable can be spread on a layer of wax paper after blotting off as much moisture as possible, and allowed to air-dry completely before storing. The key to saving these varieties of seed is to make sure the fruit or vegetable is fully ripe before collecting seeds.
Whatever type of seeds you collect, the most important factors in retaining their viability is to make sure they are thoroughly dry before storing, to label them with variety and date, and to store them in a cool, dry place. It's a good idea to spread any seeds saved on a dry paper towel overnight prior to storage. I often then use those small, pesky "business reply" envelopes left from junk mail to store seed, and keep it in a plastic container in a cool cupboard. If you have saved a few packages of silica gel from other purchases, toss one in each container of seeds to absorb excess moisture.
When I toured Mt. Vernon, I found it fascinating that the gardens there were designed to grow seeds for future use as well as produce for family consumption. George himself commented that "After the first year, it is a sign of poor husbandry for a gardener to need to purchase seeds." While the acquisition of fresh seed each gardening season is far easier for us now than it was in George Washington's day, it can be both thrifty and fascinating to gather and save seeds for next year's garden . . . and just another way to extend the harvest.
--Susan Rodebush © 2009
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